Sunday, January 19

We drove to Querenca yesterday expecting to go to their annual Sausage Festival. It’s a sweet and charming town in the mountains and the festival is a huge big deal for the town’s people and those of surrounding areas.

But it wasn’t Saturday, we learned we were away day early. We had lunch instead at a fabulous restaurant (there are only two of them in the town) where I had grilled octopus, my first of the trip.

We went back today and fortunately arrived early so we could park and we walked around before having the best grilled chorizo sausage on a roll ever. Hundreds of people were there and it was an awesome way to spend part of the day

Wednesday, January 15

This week has been quiet and nice, with a morning trip to the pool, then a little work, a long walk, then enjoying some fish from the market cooked in the apartment.

It is perfect to just live life here in this beautiful environment in our tiny apartment on the beach.

Friday, January 10

We have a good routine here in Quarteira, with me able to swim every morning at the beautiful pool near our apartment. Yesterday we walked to a charming restaurant for lunch, through some interesting neighborhoods we wouldn’t have otherwise seen. Lunch was good and we were able to sit outside.

We will see what the weekend brings.

Wednesday, January 8

We have had some nice sunny days although it is raining now. I walked to the Wednesday “gypsy” market this morning – a nice chilly and windy early jaunt. When I arrived, they were just setting up and seemed to be in no rush. I guess the crowds show up later in the morning and not at the 8am opening, as I did. I got some nice warm sweatpants for 5€.

I’ve been swimming every day which is wonderful. The facility is nice and the pool is top-notch. I feel lucky it’s so close to where we are staying.

I also feel lucky that this city is so walkable. I don’t count my steps, but they’re certainly over 10,000/day.

[view from my walk earlier]

[ Christmas village is packed away]

Back at It

We arrived in Portugal yesterday, severely jet-lagged but otherwise fine. It took over an hour to get our car from EuroCar because our contract was not written correctly – frustrating but not a big deal.

We drove to Quarteira and found our apartment easily, but the parking space was a bit of a maze to figure out, especially on no sleep.

Sleep is caught up, and we are completely content. It’s 65 degrees outside – perfect for a walk on the beach.

Tuesday: Vienna

We headed from Krakow to Vienna this morning. It was a gray day and snow is expected in Krakow in a few days, so it was probably a good time to go. I enjoyed our stay in Krakow and would love to return.

The Czech Republic and Austria both require a sticker to drive on the main toll roads, so of course that was an important concern as we drove. The booth to get a “winiety” was behind a convenience store. The woman working there was very friendly and had stickers available for both countries, so that was out of the way without further searching.

We got to our lodging in Vienna in the late afternoon, but we realized right away that we are too far from the center of the city to walk there – or walk anywhere really. Luckily the bus and subway systems are very good but we should have researched a bit better. Still, it is nice to be on the Danube River.

We had weiner schnitzel and then enjoyed the Christmas lights, some hot mulled wine, and the holiday market. There are four of them here so we will check out more tomorrow. It is a beautiful city, full of people.


photos: some of Vienna’s holiday lights; chocolate tools for sale at a booth at the Christmas market; the small (just one person can fit in it, plus the woman woring there) hard-to-find booth to buy a sticker to drive on the roads in the Czech Republic and Austria.

Friday: Gyor, Hungary

The Gyor Book Festival is this weekend, so language barrier or not, of course I wanted to check it out. It is at the National Theatre, so I had the chance to see part of that building although the main stage area and audience seating was closed.

It was interesting to walk around and see all the vendors and there were speakers in some of the rooms – all parts I couldn’t enjoy. But a good inhalation of book puts me in a great mood regardless.

I left and went across the street to the Square Donut shop. I was disappointed that the squares were all pretty heavily iced and embellished. I would have gotten a plain one if there was such a thing. “Plain? I do not know this – plain,” said the young woman behind the counter.

We visited Bishop’s Castle later in the morning. There are a few hundred winding steps to get to the top, the castle’s lookout. It was worth the trip – the four-sided view of the city was gorgeous.

The cellar of Bishop’s Castle is where Bishop Vilmos Apor and others hid for protection from the Soviets during WWII. The bishop got shot protecting those people in the catacombs and he died a martyr. It is unsettling to be down there, with bullet holes still in the ceiling and some of the rooms just as it was.

We had lunch in a pub and walked around for a few hours, and planned the next few days when we will be in the ancient southern Hungarian city of Pecs.


photos: a view from the top of the castle; square donuts – not all that enticing; the start of the book festival

Saturday: Clermont-Ferrand

After breakfast in our hotel, we walked into the city, about a half-hour from where we are staying. There’s a bus and tram service close by, but it was a nice morning with temperatures in the sixties so traveling on foot seemed to be the best option.

It was an interesting walk – we passed very old buildings and narrow, pretty streets. We spent some time checking out the “Notre Dame de Clermont,” a replica of the famous cathedral built mainly in the 1300s. It’s black from volcanic ash outside, but inside it’s beautiful and used regularly, it seems.

We continued walking around and checked out some store, and stopped for coffee when a rain shower caught us off guard (without umbrellas). The sun eventually came out and we found a nice restaurant for lunch. We left a few hours later after eating too much delicious food and we started the walk back to our hotel and a comfortable reading spot.

Tomorrow: Lyon

photos- a narrow old city street

below – Notre-Dame in Clermont

from fromage at the farmers market this morning

Wednesday: Wexford

We left behind the bustling city of Dublin this morning and took a bus to the airport to pick up a rental car. We were surprised to queue up behind at least fifty other people, but 90 minutes later we had our car and drove to Wexford, a river city almost two hours away.

Sitting on the righthand side of the car and driving on the British side of the road were a challenge for sure (not for me, I sat on the left) and making a right turn takes some practice, but all is well and we made it here.

With Hurricane Lorenzo threatening very bad weather tomorrow, I am glad we are in a comfortable quiet place, with a lap pool and full gym that looks pretty deluxe if we are hotel-bound tomorrow. If it turns out to be a decent day after all, we will explore this very old and beautiful city.

photos: top – the tables and chairs are off the hotel restaurant’s back deck as they prepare for Thursday’s storm.

bottom: the noisy, busy nighttime streets of Dublin

The River Slaney in Wexford, Ireland

Monday: London

20190922_075321

The next leg of my travel adventure begins today. My rowing is finished, I said goodbye to my rowing friends, and spent the night at Heathrow airport where my traveling companion will arrive in a few hours.

We will visit friends in the city later on today and tomorrow before heading to Scotland. For now, some coffee after a workout.

20190922_232423Got to keep on keeping on now that I’m not rowing eight hours a day.